1. Shedding vs Breakage: 100 to 150 pieces of hair is expected to shed daily. Shedding signifies end of strand cycle; it is perfectly normal! You can identify a shed hair by the white bulb on one end of the strand. Breakage/broken hair has no bulbs at either ends.
2. Hair Structure: The hair shaft is made up of an outer layer 'cuticle', middle layer 'cortex' and inner layer called the 'medulla'. The sebaceous gland produces oil that lubricates the skin and scalp.
3. Hair grows about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) per month on an average person.
4. African hair is the most fragile type of hair. Its coils makes it more prone to breakage. We all grew up thinking African hair doesn't grow past the shoulders simply because we don't retain length.
5. Black hair thrives on moisture and protein. Hair is 90% protein but because chemicals tamper with the hair's structure, it must be nourished with moisture and protein. This will prevent breakage. There must not be too much or too little protein.
6. Moisturize and seal: apply a moisturizer that has Water (Aqua) as its first ingredient. Then, seal in that moisture with a sealant such as oil (e.g. coconut oil) or cream (e.g. shea butter/ mango butter). Do not wait till your hair feels dry before moisturizing. Pay attention to the ends most especially.
7. Oils: there are two types of oils - essential oils and carrier oils. Essential oils are strong and must not be applied on their own in excess. Essential oils include peppermint, eucalyptus, lavender, and tea tree oils. Essential oils should ideally be added with a carrier oil before applying on hair. Carrier oils include coconut, olive, jojoba, argan, and avocado oils. Carrier oils can be applied alone.
8. What you put in your body affects your hair growth. Drink 8 cups of water and increase your protein intake. Not only will your hair grow longer and stronger, your skin will also improve. That's a bonus!
9. Too much heat is bad! This goes especially for relaxed hair. Applying heat frequently leads to breakage. This includes blow dryers and straighteners. In place of blow dryers, you can practice air drying and instead of flat ironing, you can invest in roller-setting at home. Heat from heat caps, bonnets and dryers are safe. If you absolutely must flat iron or blow dry, apply a heat protectant e.g. Argan oil. Ceramic flat irons are best.
10. Hair wash: hair should be washed once a week to avoid product build-up. Dandruff restricts hair growth; hair thrives with a clean scalp. Some people also 'co-wash' - washing mid-week with a conditioner. It also clears dandruff. Co-washing is advisable for people who gym to wash off sweat. The choice is yours.
11. Conditioning: condition every time after shampooing. Deep conditioning with heat allows the goodies to penetrate better. Concentrate on the ends as these are the most fragile and oldest part of the hair. Keep in mind you are trying to retain length.
12. DO NOT use products with mineral oil and petrolatum/petroleum. Both ingredients coat the hair, do not penetrate and prevents anything else from penetrating. Also, shampoos that contain sulfates should not be used frequently. Sodium Sulfate dries hair therefore are best for clarifying. Moisturizing shampoos without sulfates are best for frequent use.
13: Relaxing: Do not apply relaxer to hair already relaxed. Coat already relaxed hair with oil or vaseline to prevent relaxer from penetrating. Stick to the time written on the box (contrary to our mothers' opinion that the longer the better). If you don't, you risk over-processing and breakage. Always deep condition after neutralizing and washing to replenish lost moisture. Touch ups should be between 8-12 weeks.
14. Protective styling: braids, cornrows and weaves should not be too tight. Pulling on scalp hurts and may break hair.
15. Cutting off split ends can lead to hair growth. Trimming on the other hand does not affect hair growth but can be done once in a while.
16. Take very good care of your ends during winter (if your country has the season). Cold dries out our hair very quickly; drying leads to breakage.
17. Combing: start combing from the ends and work your way towards the root. This prevents tangling and unnecessary breakage. Also, comb with a wide-tooth comb.
18. Protection: sleep with a satin scarf/cap on a satin pillow case. Cotton draws moisture away the hair while satin does not.
19: If a product works for another person does not mean it will work for you. If a product does not work for you, simply discontinue use.
20. Warm water opens the cuticles, cold/cool water closes the cuticles. So shampoo with warm water, rinse out conditioner with cold water. Closed cuticles absorbs and retains moisture and other ingredients infused in it.
Final Words
Black hair growth takes patience and investment. So hang in there and stay motivated. If I can do it, you can too!
3. Hair grows about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) per month on an average person.
4. African hair is the most fragile type of hair. Its coils makes it more prone to breakage. We all grew up thinking African hair doesn't grow past the shoulders simply because we don't retain length.
5. Black hair thrives on moisture and protein. Hair is 90% protein but because chemicals tamper with the hair's structure, it must be nourished with moisture and protein. This will prevent breakage. There must not be too much or too little protein.
6. Moisturize and seal: apply a moisturizer that has Water (Aqua) as its first ingredient. Then, seal in that moisture with a sealant such as oil (e.g. coconut oil) or cream (e.g. shea butter/ mango butter). Do not wait till your hair feels dry before moisturizing. Pay attention to the ends most especially.
7. Oils: there are two types of oils - essential oils and carrier oils. Essential oils are strong and must not be applied on their own in excess. Essential oils include peppermint, eucalyptus, lavender, and tea tree oils. Essential oils should ideally be added with a carrier oil before applying on hair. Carrier oils include coconut, olive, jojoba, argan, and avocado oils. Carrier oils can be applied alone.
8. What you put in your body affects your hair growth. Drink 8 cups of water and increase your protein intake. Not only will your hair grow longer and stronger, your skin will also improve. That's a bonus!
9. Too much heat is bad! This goes especially for relaxed hair. Applying heat frequently leads to breakage. This includes blow dryers and straighteners. In place of blow dryers, you can practice air drying and instead of flat ironing, you can invest in roller-setting at home. Heat from heat caps, bonnets and dryers are safe. If you absolutely must flat iron or blow dry, apply a heat protectant e.g. Argan oil. Ceramic flat irons are best.
10. Hair wash: hair should be washed once a week to avoid product build-up. Dandruff restricts hair growth; hair thrives with a clean scalp. Some people also 'co-wash' - washing mid-week with a conditioner. It also clears dandruff. Co-washing is advisable for people who gym to wash off sweat. The choice is yours.
11. Conditioning: condition every time after shampooing. Deep conditioning with heat allows the goodies to penetrate better. Concentrate on the ends as these are the most fragile and oldest part of the hair. Keep in mind you are trying to retain length.
12. DO NOT use products with mineral oil and petrolatum/petroleum. Both ingredients coat the hair, do not penetrate and prevents anything else from penetrating. Also, shampoos that contain sulfates should not be used frequently. Sodium Sulfate dries hair therefore are best for clarifying. Moisturizing shampoos without sulfates are best for frequent use.
13: Relaxing: Do not apply relaxer to hair already relaxed. Coat already relaxed hair with oil or vaseline to prevent relaxer from penetrating. Stick to the time written on the box (contrary to our mothers' opinion that the longer the better). If you don't, you risk over-processing and breakage. Always deep condition after neutralizing and washing to replenish lost moisture. Touch ups should be between 8-12 weeks.
14. Protective styling: braids, cornrows and weaves should not be too tight. Pulling on scalp hurts and may break hair.
15. Cutting off split ends can lead to hair growth. Trimming on the other hand does not affect hair growth but can be done once in a while.
16. Take very good care of your ends during winter (if your country has the season). Cold dries out our hair very quickly; drying leads to breakage.
17. Combing: start combing from the ends and work your way towards the root. This prevents tangling and unnecessary breakage. Also, comb with a wide-tooth comb.
18. Protection: sleep with a satin scarf/cap on a satin pillow case. Cotton draws moisture away the hair while satin does not.
19: If a product works for another person does not mean it will work for you. If a product does not work for you, simply discontinue use.
20. Warm water opens the cuticles, cold/cool water closes the cuticles. So shampoo with warm water, rinse out conditioner with cold water. Closed cuticles absorbs and retains moisture and other ingredients infused in it.
Final Words
Black hair growth takes patience and investment. So hang in there and stay motivated. If I can do it, you can too!
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